Nothing can quite prepare anyone, for the impact of Fes el-Bali, the ancient high-walled medina (old city) of Fez. With over 10,000 spiraling cobblestone streets and alleyways, which are too narrow for the tiniest car to get through, it is somewhat difficult to navigate without a tour guide. A tight jumble of centuries-old riads (traditional Moroccan houses) stands shoulder-to-shoulder with elaborately tiled mosques and madrasas (schools). A head-spinning mixture of odors wafts along the tiny passages – freshly baked bread from wood-stoked ovens, sizzling kebabs, cumin, fruits and scented oils.
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